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The Tulou of Fujian Province: Life in the Round

Sitting incongruously amongst nearby apartment blocks in Yongding County, Fujian Province, these ancient houses sit squatly on the landscape like a cluster of recently landed earthen UFOs. There are more than 30,000 tulou土楼 or rammed earth houses in Fujian and neighbouring southern Jiangxi Province, completely unique to this corner of China, and to the Hakka and Minnan people who built them hundreds of years ago when they settled in the region.
It’s an extraordinary feat that so many still survive (the oldest dates to 1371), thanks in no small part to recent UNESCO World Heritage status and the tulou‘s increasing popularity as an architectural tourist destination.
Tulou are extraordinarily impressive inside and out, designed for communal living for up to 400 families at a time, and for defence against armed bandits who were rife in the area for several hundred years.
From the outside tulou have all the features of a fortress – walls thick enough to withstand attack from guns and even cannons, sloped slightly inwards to protect against earthquakes, the only exterior windows too high to climb and too small to enter but perfect for lookouts and for gun stockades. An imposing gateway cut from a single block of granite marks each entrance, sealed by two massive wooden doors plated with iron and barricaded from within by horizontal crossbeams once closed.
But enter the tulou and you step into the heart of an entirely different world – a busy community of several hundred people, living in circular rows of individual apartments over four or five floors facing inwards onto a central courtyard with a small shrine. Each individual family owns a column of rooms, from the ground floor storage and cooking area to the sleeping apartments above, one on top of the other, like a slice of cake. Wealthy families might own several ‘slices’ side by side.
Nowadays the tulou have far fewer residents as young people leave to seek work in bigger cities. But one old resident told me the tulou come alive for the many festivals of the year when extended families return home to celebrate together in the communal way.
Built in 1912 by the family of a wealthy tobacco merchant, Zhencheng Lou in Hongkeng village is one of the most recently constructed tulou wth two concentric rings around a central shrine for ceremonies.
One of the smallest tulou in Fujian is Rusheng Lou with only 16 rooms, still inhabited by several families.

Communal well inside one tulou
“Tourists come in to the tulou, they look up and say ‘Wow it’s big, wow it looks great’ but they don’t understand the depth of tulou culture and history” said one elderly resident who has lived in the tulou all of his 72 years. He looks forward to Chinese New Year when all of his family return to the tulou to celebrate together.
Individual kitchens side by side on the ground floor

Family shrine
Square tulou and round tulou side by side. The Dragon waits for New Year celebrations.
Fujian Tulou 福建土楼
Yongding township, the largest town in Yongding County, makes a great base for visiting the nearby tulou, and has several hotels.
From Yongding you will need to hire a driver or join a tulou tour as the  tulou clustered in multiple small groups spread over a broad area.   We visited Chenqi Lou (in the village of Gaobei 高北) and Zhencheng Lou。  There are other clusters of tulou nearby at Hekeng, Tianluokeng and many more. The tourist trails are well signed but in Chinese only – look for the brown signs.    In addition to the tourist sites it is also possible to stop and visit any tulou you see along the way. Check with the local residents first before entering and always ask before going upstairs.

Merry Christmas from Me!

Merry Christmas everyone! Wishing you holidays filled with good food, fine friends and a spirit of adventure.
The Great China Roadtrip rolled back into Shanghai two days ago after 175 days, 28,000km, 24 provinces and more bowls of noodles than I care to mention. It’s so great to be home after so months on the road, and I even had time to find my annual Christmas ball – this one from Madame Mao’s Dowry in Shanghai is just full of proletariat cheer.
There are still three more posts from the road to share with you and I look forward to bringing you those in the coming weeks. Our road trip was made all the more amazing by the constant support of all of you sending messages and keeping us in touch with the world outside our campervan. 
Thank you to each and every one of you for joining us on the road – you were awesome travelling companions! 

Ten Must Try Foods in Guizhou and Guangxi

Now in the final leg of our six month sojourn around China eating all the way, we’re fairly whizzing through provinces at a cracking pace. Guizhou and Guangxi lie next to one another, the twin jade buckles side by side on China’s belt. 

Guizhou, to the west, is hilly and green, misty and damp, the landscape filled with limestone karst hills cut through with meandering rivers. In Guizhou the karst, geologically speaking, is younger, so the hills are smaller and the river valleys less deep.

In Guangxi, home to Guilin, Yangshuo (below) and the stunning Dragon’s Backbone Rice Terraces, the karst have had more time to erode and develop so are steeper, taller, and the rivers wider.

The foods though, share much in common. They use chili, but not too much. They like sour and salty flavours. Both provinces have clean rivers full of fish and snails used often in cooking, both have many ethnic minorities who have contributed to the diversity of foods and flavours.

Here are ten foods we tried (and loved – even the snails – especially the snails!). Some of Guilin and Yangshuo’s foods I’ve previously written about and haven’t repeated here – the famous pijiu yu or beer fish, and the barbecued river fish served from floating bamboo restaurants in the middle of the river. 

Enjoy!


1. Crispy Stuffed Tofu Balls   

From southern Guizhou, these street food snacks are salty, crispy and oily – a perfect foil to Guizhou’s damp and foggy climate. Tiny balls of seasoned pork mince with scallions are stuffed inside a soft coat of tofu then deep fried.

An alternate variety uses small triangular blocks of tofu, the centre carefully stuffed and then pan-fried until the outside browns and crisps. Very, very satisfying.

Where to find them: Southern Guizhou in streets and markets


2. Stuffed River Snails 
To be honest, I only ordered these snails because they’re a local Li River specialty, expecting to taste one and leave the rest, chalking the whole thing up to experience. Well, there’s a reason these are a treasured local specialty – they taste incredible.

A true labour of love, the snails are first disgorged in clean water so the meat is free of grit. After a quick steaming the snails are removed from their shells and the meat chopped finely with the freshest mint, garlic, chili and a small amount of pork, then stuffed back into the shells before being steamed again.

The combination of fresh, strong mint and chili with the rich snail meat is a knockout.  

Where to find them: Guilin and Yangshuo. The Yulong River outside Yangshuo has several riverside restaurants using the freshest, cleanest snails and these were the best we tried.


3. Rice tofu 米豆腐

Made from a steamed rice flour paste cut into cubes, rice tofu mi doufu is a Guizhou specialty that looks like tofu but tastes incredibly comforting. It needs something robust and spicy to complement the smooth, soft texture: in one restaurant we were given a small earthenware dish packed with chopped cilantro, scallions, fire-hot fresh chilies and dried chili flakes in which to coat the cubes. 
Where to find it: throughout Guizhou
4. Sour Fish Soup 酸菜鱼
Cut through with the complex sour tang of pickled cabbage and pickled chilies, the unique and addictive flavour of Guizhou’s sour fish soup, suan cai yu, is fully developed at the table on a burner while the aromas fill you with hunger and anticipation. Local fresh river fish is used with sweet, clean flesh, but full of tiny fine bones so you need to eat it very slowly and carefully.
The taste is enhanced with the use of an unusual local spice,  mu jiao hua, shown here in a street market.
Where to find it: Throughout Guizhou. Every area has its own variation depending on available ingredients and the river fish used.
5. Zhe ergen 酸辣折耳根

And speaking of unusual ingredients, it’s difficult to pass through Guizhou, and Guangxi without eating this at least once. The root of a water plant, houttuynia, zhe ergen grows along the edges of rice paddies and ponds and has a pungent, slightly medicinal taste (some would say an unpleasant strong medicinal taste, dividing those who love it from those who loathe it) and a woody crunch whether cooked or raw.
Zhe ergen is used in a multitude of ways. Chopped into short lengths it is eaten with chili, mint and soy as a fresh, strong-flavoured salad, stir-fried with thin slices of Guizhou la rou or bacon its crunchy texture and unusual taste complement the rich smoky flavour and translucent fat of the la rou perfectly, or pickled and chopped finely to make a dressing for tofu, potatoes or other foods with simple flavours.

Where to find it: Zhe ergen is ubiquitus in Guizhou, but is also found in Sichuan (where it goes by the name of zhubigong 猪鼻拱 or pig’s snout,  because the leaves resemble the shape of a pig’s snout), Guangxi, Yunnan and Hubei (where it is called yuxingcao 鱼腥草 or fish-smelling herb because the leaves have a sight fish smell). 


6. Lover’s Tofu 恋爱豆腐果 

Thank goodness for my friend Frank Kassell, who posted about this dish yesterday in his Field Guide to Chinese Street Food Street, saving me hours of work to track down the correct name for this popular Guizhou street snack! 

Lover’s tofu, or lian ai doufu guo, is originally from Guiyang, Guizhou’s capital. Frank has the full story on the unusual name if you’re interested in its origins. 
Squares of soft tofu the size of the palm of your hand are grilled on a gently heated oiled griddle until the outside becomes a little golden and crispy (but only just) and the inside melts to the consistency of soft custard. The vendor places it on a small dish, tears open the centre of the square and fills it with a big spoonful of finely chopped zhe ergen (see above) mixed with chili and often garlic. It’s smooth, spicy, soft, crunchy and one of the most satisfying ways to eat tofu I’ve tried.

Where to find it: Street food stalls all over Guizhou
7. Guilin Rice Noodles 桂林米线 
Take one bowl of freshly cooked soft white rice noodles. Add a slurp of stock (but not too much), a handful of shiny fried peanuts, a spoonful of sharp and tangy pickled beans, a scatter of scallions, and wafer thin slices of cold roast pork. Mix. Eat.
Where to find it: Although this noodle dish originated in Guilin, it can be found all over Guangxi in small noodle houses and street stalls.
8. Guizhou La Rou 贵州腊肉

The first time I visited the beatiful Miao villages around Guizhou I flew back to Shanghai with 2kg of larou or home-smoked bacon wrapped in a black garbage bag sitting on my lap, the most precious of all souvenirs.

Pink and succulent, smoky and salty, la rou is elevated to a culinary art form in Guizhou by the local Miao people whose pigs are fat and happy and roam freely, and who cure and smoke the bacon in their homes.

Where to find it: All over Guizhou, the best la rou comes form the Miao villages around Kaili.


9. Lotus Seed Pudding 莲子糕
Drawn in by the ornate steaming copper pot with two curved dragons on either side for handles, I just simply had to try this Guilin street snack. I watched, fascinated, as the vendor took a small amount of white powder (from ground lotus seeds) and added hot water from the dragon pot. 
As he stirred the clear liquid became first milky then thick and smooth, the consistency of paste. to this he added golden green sultanas, black sesame seeds, crushed peanuts, and peanut powder. 
He told me to mix it in and eat it while it was still hot. The lotus seed ‘pudding’ itself had almost no flavour but the most extroardinary smooth and pleasant texture, with each mouthful a taste of peanuts and sweet raisins. Luscious. 

Where to find it: Guilin and Yangshuo. Watch out for the copper dragon pots on the street.


10.Shattering Malt Toffee 麦芽糖 
Mai ya tang, or malt toffee, is one of the most unusual street foods I’ve ever tasted.  Sold in long rods coated with tiny white puffed grains, on the first bite the whole thing shatters into tiny crystalline malty sugary shards. 

Eat Your Way Around China!




 

The Miao Guzang Festival – A Marathon of Feasting, Firecrackers and Pigs 苗寨鼓藏节:一场八个阶段的马拉松

Our visit to Guizhou Province, an extraordinarily beautiful part of China with steep green hills, silvery mists and winding rivers, just so happened to coincide with a really big deal –  the Guzang Festival, an ancestor commemoration that occurs once every thirteen years for the local Miao people.


Not that we knew it was a big deal at first. We had good information from the always-helpful Billy Zhang at Gateway to Guizhou that there was a Miao New Year Festival taking place in Leishan over several days, or a week (these things always being rather fluid and flexible), but we figured if we arrived in the middle of those dates we were bound to see something good.

Trying to pin down just when and where the festival began, and in which of Leishan’s surrounding villages events would be taking place, and what the nature of those events might be was much more difficult. Even the official Chinese programme Billy emailed me was too obscure to be helpful.

2012年11月26日至29日在丹江镇、西江镇、郎德镇、大塘乡、望丰乡等乡镇的相关苗寨举行斗牛、斗鸟、斗猪比赛等民间民俗活动。

The bullfight, fighting birds, bucket pig race held on November 26 to 29 at the Dan Town, West Town, Grande town, large Tangxiang, and Wang Feng, townships Miao Village folk folk activities.

But it did sound intriguing – a bucket pig race! Whatever could that be? 


Our plan was to just turn up and see what was happening. Well, not so much a plan as a loitering presence.

But then one of those lucky travelling things happened. On the way to Leishan we detoured to the pristine wilderness around Libo in southern Guizhou on the invitation of a young American blogger (Kaci and the World) living there, and spent our first night in Libo as guests of the generous hospitality and outstanding home cooking of her good friend and Chinese National Geographic photographer, Big Mountain. His real name.

Big Mountain is passionate about the many ethnic minorities in Guizhou, of which he is one, and has photographed all of them over many years. When we told him of our plans to visit the upcoming Miao New Year Festival he made enquiries and discovered it was, in fact, the very infrequent and incredibly important once-every-THIRTEEN-years Guzang Festival. Before we knew it our party of four without much idea of where we should go and what we should see had become a party of six with contacts and a plan

Big Mountain set about explaining the intricacies of the festival to us. Preparations begin three years ahead of time, involving a drum (gu) which needs to be buried (zang) and another drum needing to be woken up, the selection of an ox for sacrifice, and the use of ducks as vehicles to swim across the heavenly sea, returning with the woken spirits of the ancestors. 

It sounded terribly complicated and very, very interesting, but in the end came down to the essence of every good festival – a gathering of people, drinking, feasting, music and dancing, with a few uniquely Miao components thrown in, like the celestial ducks, some bullfighting, firecrackers and pig slaughter. It was going to be one hell of a party.

Here’s how the festival unfolded, from our perspective.


我们去了贵州省,那是中国一个风景特别秀丽的地方,有很多陡峭的青山,萦绕着银雾还有很多蜿蜒的河流。很巧的是我们还遇到了当地一件大事——鼓藏节,这是苗族当地一个祭祖的活动,每十三年进行一次。
我们一开始并不知道这是一个大型活动,我们从乐于助人的比利张在Gateway to Guizhou所发文章中得知好消息,在近几天或者一周(这些事情总是不固定,比较灵活)在乐山将会有一个苗族新年节日举行,但我们要计算出是否我们可以在这些日子期间到达,我们必须看看这些有意思的事情。试着确定节日在什么时候、在哪里开始,在乐山周围的哪些村落举行,获得这些信息本身就可能更加困难。甚至是比利发给我们的正式中文节目单也太模糊以至于没帮上什么忙。
十一月二十六到二十九日期间,在丹江镇、西江镇、郎德镇、大塘乡、望丰乡等苗族镇区将举行斗牛、斗鸟、斗猪比赛等民间民俗活动。

但这听起来确实很有趣——斗猪比赛!究竟会是什么样子?
我们打算去看看究竟会发生什么。
之后幸运的事情出现了,在去乐山的路上我们绕道走进贵州南部荔波附近的原始荒地,并受邀于一位住在那里的年轻美国博主。我们作为客人在荔波度过第一晚,受到她慷慨热情的款待,还品尝到她好友绝妙的居家烹饪厨艺,她的好友是一位中国国家地理摄影师,名叫大山。
大山对贵州的少数民族充满了热情,他已经为他们拍照很多年了。当我们告诉他我们将要参观即将到来的苗族新年时,他打听后发现原来这个节日是非产罕见和盛大的,十三年才举行一次的鼓藏节。在知道这件事以前,我们四人团队没有太多考虑过要去哪里,现在我们应该去看看这个节日,这成为六人团队的共识和计划。
大山着手向我们解释有关这个节日错综复杂的情况。人们提前三年就开始做准备,期间需要埋藏一个鼓,与此同时,另一个鼓会被唤醒,还要献祭一头公牛,鸭群被当作游过天海的交通工具,归来之时带着唤醒的祖先之灵。
这听起来非常复杂,而且特别有意思,但归根结底到最后都会回归到每个优良节日的实质——聚集的人群,饮酒享乐,音乐舞蹈,还有一些独特的苗族成分在其中,像神圣的鸭子,斗牛,爆竹还有斗猪。这将会是一个盛大的派对。
接下来我将从我自己的视角展开节日的叙述。

1. Pre-Festival Preparation: Ducks and Firecrackers 节日前的准备:鸭子和爆竹

One thing is certain when we arrive in Leishan – this Guzang celebration definitely involves ducks, lots of them, and unbelievable quantities of booze and firecrackers. This might be a potentially lethal combination, and doubtless will be, particularly for the ducks. 
Every single shop in Leishan has abandoned their usual wares in favour of floor-to-ceiling displays of firecrackers, ten-metre long dragons rolled into neat coils, or huge luridly coloured boxes – the kind where you light the taper at one corner and run away for ten minutes of full-throttle bedazzling. 
The liquor, mijiu or rice wine, is being sold on the footpath in plastic jerrycans, with the smallest size ten litres, and the average purchase twenty-five. At around 40% alcohol it’s clear, deadly stuff and is about as tasty as lighter fluid and just as flammable. 
Every motorbike coming out of town has two boxes of firecrackers on the back, counterbalanced with two jerry cans of strong liquor on either side, and a brace of ducks nestled at the driver’s feet. 
我们到达乐山的时候有件事可以确定——这个鼓藏节一定会有很多鸭子,还有多到难以置信的数量的酒和爆竹。这将是一个潜在的致命的结合,毫无疑问是特别为鸭子准备的。
乐山的每一个商店都放弃了他们日常的商品空间用来搁置爆竹,从地板到天花板,十米长龙整齐地绕成线圈,还有巨大的色彩斑斓的盒子——那种在盒子一角点燃导火线的礼花,每个烟花都可以饱满地绽放十分钟之久。烈酒、米酒或者黄酒,被盛放在塑料罐里在小径上售卖,最小的十公升,平均每人购买二十五公升。大约有百分之四十是纯酒精,显然是致命的玩意儿,像淡味饮品一样可口但却是易燃的。

 

25 litres of liquor…check, smallish box of fireworks…check. Now to load the basket of ducks……..

2. Feast Number One 一号盛宴

We arrive in the tiny village of Paiweng on foot, leaving the van parked at a point where it can’t drive any further on the narrow dirt track. The first sign of something afoot is the distant echoing crack of firecrackers, and a cloud of smoke above the next valley. 
As we round the last corner we see the village sitting in the folds of steep hills, with rows of dark wooden houses on stilts staggered up the hillside. A barrage of fireworks goes off in front of the house immediately to our left, deafening us and lighting the narrow zigzagging pathway we’re taking to the family home of a friend of Big Mountain, high on the hillside. The paths are busy with guests arriving – Miao women in their traditional dress of a black velvet tunic embroidered with pink roses, hair in a high bun decorated with a single pink rose.
Arriving at the house, the start of the festivities is marked by the lighting of a long red snake of firecrackers right next to the woodpile outside the kitchen door. It seems unnecessarily risky but clearly it’s been safely done thirteen years before. Or…not. I guess thirteen years is long enough to rebuild a whole village razed to the ground by fire, and forgive whoever lit the firecracker that did it.
Inside the kitchen, the grandmother of the house greets us as she guts fish for the feast. She motions for us to move into the big open room at the centre of the house, a high-ceilinged space with stairs at one end leading to the upper floor for sleeping, and an open verandah at the other, pefect for watching the neighbour’s fireworks display as cinders rain down on the roof.
We’re warmly welcomed by the rest of the family as they prepare for the feast. The oldest daughter’s husband carries in precariously leaning stacks of porcelain rice bowls, painted with small blue and pink flowers, and lays them out on the floor in long rows. 
He reappears with twenty five litres of mijiu, and taking a tin teapot, decants from the drum and begins to pour a bowl of mijiu for each person, full to the brim. Out of politeness he includes both of our children, who, out of politeness and strong looks from us, decline.
The women and men come in from outside and take their seats as the food begins to arrive. The whole extended family is here – the grandmother, all of her daughters and their husbands and children, aunts and uncles, lined up on narrow wooden settles around the room’s perimeter. 
We eat – first, a steaming wok full of blood congee, a type of rice soup, rich and tasty. It seems impolite, as guests, to ask where the blood has come from. Balanced across the rim of the steaming wok a narrow wooden plank is laid, and on this rest three dishes, keeping warm – spicy duck, chopped into small pieces with a sharp cleaver, fried fish, and pickled sour bamboo shoots. 
The fish has grown in the nearby rice terraces through the summer along with the rice. Come harvest the water is drained out of the terraces and the fish can be easily caught. 
Another bowl of braised duck arrives, and suddenly the symbolic duck swimming across the celestial lake and bringing back the spirits of the ancestors is sitting in a bowl in front of me. I guess their role was not purely metaphorical after all.
No sooner have we started eating than the husband of the oldest daughter lifts his bowl of mijiu in a toast. We follow suit. 
‘He jiu!’ he commands, literally ‘Drink alcohol!’ It rhymes with Sergio when he says it.
We all take a sip of the burning liquor and resume eating.
A few minutes later one of the other daughter’s husbands raises his rice wine in a toast. ‘He jiu!’ he says. ‘He jiu!’ we all reply, and take another, bigger sip.
I reach for a piece of the sweet rice terrace fish, and just as I’m about to wrestle it free with my chopsticks I see another toast about to take place. 
‘He jiu!’ comes the call. 
‘He jiu!’ we all respond. 
This time though, the command is followed by ‘He gan!’ ‘Drink dry!’ and around me old men and young women alike down their rice wine, followed by that puckered face caused by skulling hard liquor. They tip their bowls sideways to prove they’re empty.
Everyone is rosy cheeked and happy. The teapot comes back out and refills our bowls, and another round of firecrackers go off. 
‘He jiu!’
我们徒步走到排翁小村庄,将车停在再也没法往进开的一条狭窄的土路上。准备工作发生的首个迹象就是远处爆竹的回声,以及在旁边山谷上方腾起的烟雾。
当我们到最后一个拐角处的时候,我们看见村庄坐落在陡峻山坡的重叠之中,在我们左侧是一排排的像在山坡上踩着高跷的深色木房。一串爆竹在我们左侧的房子前面噼里啪啦响了起来,快要震聋我们了,也照亮了我们去大山的一个朋友家的一条之字形的小路,就在那个高高的山坡上。路上拥挤着到访的客人——身绣着粉色玫瑰的黑色天鹅绒束腰外衣苗族妇女,头发高高束成一个小圆包,上面插着一支粉色的玫瑰。
到达房子的时候,在厨房外的柴堆旁点燃一串鞭炮标志着节日正式开始了。看起来没必要冒险但是显然十三年前这么做也是安全的。又或者并非如此。十三年的时间足够长将原来的村落用一场大火夷为平地并且再建一个新的村落,与此同时也原谅了那个点燃鞭炮的人。
在厨房里面,房子的主人一个老奶奶问候了我们,她正在准备晚宴,清洗着鱼的内脏。她提议我们去房子的中心,一个大的开放的房间,那里的天花板很高,在房间的一头有楼梯通往上层睡觉的地方,而另一头则是一个开放的走廊,非常适合观看邻居家的爆竹,尤其是当烟花落到房顶的时候。
当房子的其他家人准备晚宴的时候我们受到热情的欢迎。大女儿的丈夫以一个不怎么安全的姿势倚靠在瓷制饭碗堆旁,这些碗的上面画着蓝色和粉色的小花,一排排被摆放在地上。他在出现的时候拿着二十五公升的米酒,带着一个锡制茶壶,从桶里倒出米酒,又为每一个人倒入碗中。出于礼貌他也要给我们的孩子们倒了,但我们委婉拒绝了。
女人和男人们从外面走进来,当食物上来的时候他们也坐了下来。整个家庭都在这儿了——奶奶,女儿们和她们的丈夫孩子还有叔叔阿姨们都依次落座于房间周围窄窄的木椅上。
我们开始用餐——首先,一锅腾着热气的血糯米粥,是一种稻米做的粥,浓稠而美味。作为客人询问这血是从哪里来的看起来很不礼貌。在冒着热气的锅上平放着一个窄窄的木板,上面放着三盘菜,这样可以保持这些菜是热着的——用锋利的菜刀切成丁儿的辣鸭、炸鱼还有腌制的酸竹笋。
另一碗炖熟的鸭子端上来了,游过天湖并带回祖先之灵的具有象征意义的鸭子突然间就这样出现在我面前的这个碗里。我猜它们的角色毕竟不是纯粹具有比喻性的。
大女儿的丈夫举起他碗里的米酒干杯时我们就开始用餐。我们就跟着他们的样子做。
“喝酒!”他命令道,字面意思是“喝烧酒!”
我们都品了一小口烧酒,之后继续用餐。
几分钟后,其他女儿中的一个丈夫又举起米酒干杯。“喝酒!”他说。“喝酒!”我们都答道,之后又喝了一口,稍大一些。
我想拣一块甜糯米上放着的鱼,在我将用打架的筷子快要够到的时候我看见又要有人敬酒了。
“喝酒!”紧接着又是一声。
“喝酒!”我们都回答道。
尽管这一次,指令是“喝干!”“喝光了!”我身边的男人和女人都一饮而尽,紧接着便是烈性酒引发脸红胀了起来。他们将碗倒过来证明酒都喝干净了。
每个人都是面色红润而且非常快乐,茶壶被拿过来又斟满我们的碗,又一轮开始,像放鞭炮一样的感觉。
“喝酒!”

3. Feast Number Two 二号盛宴

At some point the ‘He jiu!!’ begins to reach a crescendo, with shorter and shorter intervals between toasts. Then just as everyone’s warming up the whole room stands and moves towards the door. We’re full to bursting with food and a little drunk.

‘What’s happening now?’ I ask Big Mountain. ‘Is dinner over?’
‘That was just the first dinner!’ Big Mountain tells us. ‘Now we go to her sister’s house up the hill for the next dinner!’
The what??
We arrive to find another long wooden house, its big central room filled with people lined up on each side and braziers warming more dishes of food in the centre.
Out come the towers of rice bowls, and out comes the tin teapot, this time poured by the daughter of the house. 
We greet the new family we haven’t yet met with a toast.
‘He jiu!’
And reacquaint ourselves with the family members from the first feast.
‘He jiu!’
And then everyone toasts us, as guests.
‘He jiu!’
The food is similar, a warming soup (this time bloodless), crispy-skinned duck, and shredded fish with a sour sauce.

The toasts continue for several rounds. Everyone makes the same puckered face when they have to ‘He gan!’ and drink the bowl dry.
Funny stories are told. 

‘He jiu!’

Serious stories are told.

‘He jiu!’

And then someone spots my bowl is empty, a sure sign I need to be shown true Miao hospitality by having a daughter of the house clamp a bowl of rice wine to my lips and hold it there until I drink all of it.
After that, details get a little hazy. I take a series of really, really dreadful fireworks shots while next to me Big Mountain takes National Geographic quality images despite being just as intoxicated. The mark of a true professional.

Fireworks, possibly shot from a ‘lying in the grass’ position. Not going in Nat Geo anytime soon.

Before midnight we take our leave, our hosts pressing upon us that we absolutely must be back at 4am for the most important part of the celebrations – the sacrifice of a pig.
Looking around me at the ongoing toasts being made for our departure I can see there is unlikely to be anything but snoring happening at 4am. I ask the grandmother of the house what time we should really return. ‘Eight at the earliest. More like nine or ten’ she says, with a wink.
在某一刻“喝酒!”开始渐增,敬酒之间的时间间隔越来越短。
“现在发生什么事了?”我问大山。“晚饭结束了?”
“那只是第一餐!”大山告诉我“现在我们去山上她姐姐的房子吃下一顿!”
什么??

我们最终到达的时候发现另一个长长的木头房子,房子中心的大房间的每一边都坐着人,火盆中央上方加热着更多的菜。接着出现垒成了塔的饭碗,还有锡制茶壶,这次是由房子中的女儿倒酒。
我们敬酒问候了我们之前没见过面的新的一家人。
“喝酒!”
离开第一顿晚宴之后重新认识这家成员。
“喝酒!”
然后每个人都将我们看作客人向我们敬酒。
“喝酒!”
食物是类似的,热乎乎的汤(这次没什么血色),脆皮鸭子还有撒了酸汁的切碎的鱼
敬酒仪式继续了几轮。当他们不得不“喝干!”的时候,每个人都有一样的红胀的脸,而且也确实将酒和干净了。 
期间还讲着有趣的故事。
“喝酒!”
接下来又说了一些严肃的故事。
“喝酒!”
然后有人质疑我的碗是否是空的,我需要给他们一个肯定的示意,房主家的女儿将盛着酒碗贴近我唇边,拿着它直到我喝干所有的酒,这就是苗族人的好客。
在那之后,细节逐渐变得模糊。我放了一连串真的致命的爆竹,而那个时候挨着我的大山居然照了如同国家地理品质般的照片,尽管当时是喝醉酒的状态。他果然是够专业。
在午夜之前我们离开了,主人执意要求我们清晨四点再过来参加庆祝仪式最重要的一个部分——献祭猪的仪式。
环顾周围是他们为我们的离开而持续不断地敬酒,我想除了凌晨四点的鼾声外应该不会有什么其他事情发生了。我问房子里的奶奶我们该什么时候过来。最早八点。九点或者十点也是可以的,她说着眨了下眼,

4. The Sacrifice 献祭
We return at eleven, fortified by a good nights’ sleep and strong coffee. Still, the ongoing firecrackers are a bit upsetting to the delicate equilibrium, as are the squeals of pigs meeting their end in every corner of the village. For some reason I had thought the village en masse might sacrifice a single pig, but apparently there is to be one pig for every family. Or in some cases, two.

While the butchering is happening, each one marked by fresh rounds of fireworks, I take the opportunity to wander around the village in daylight. It’s a beautiful place, full of life and colour.

But it’s hard to walk very far without coming across another pig. The task of killing, cleaning and butchering the pig falls to the men in the family, carried out on the path outside each home. 
I’m very proud of my two girls who take it all in their stride, proclaiming that ‘if you’re going to eat it, you have to be able to deal with it being killed’. How different from their squeamish attitudes before we came China, I think to myself.

我们十一点到达,以一个良好的睡眠和一杯浓咖啡振奋了一下精神。依旧是持续不断的爆竹声,对于心里的那种微妙的平衡感而言有点让人心烦,当村子每一个角落的猪看到自己生命的尽头之时,它们发出尖叫声。出于某种原因我以为全体村可能只是献祭一头猪,但显然是每家一头猪。或者在某种情形下会是两头。
当屠宰开始的时候,每一场屠宰仪式都会伴着新一轮的爆竹点燃。我抓住机会在白天游览了一下这村子。这是个美丽的地方,充满生机与色彩。
不绕过另一头猪很难走得远一些。宰杀、清洁还有屠宰的任务由家庭的男性来完成,这些都将在每家外面的小路上进行。
我很自豪我的两个姑娘都大步跨了过去,她们表明了“如果你要吃它,你必须面对它被杀的事实”,我暗自思量,这是多么不同于来中国之前她们那种神经质的态度啊。

5. Feast Number Three 三号盛宴

At midday we return to the house for what turns out to be the main feast, a meat and offal celebration of every part of the pig. Behind us haunches of meat hang from the wall, dripping small puddles of blood. 
The first course is laid out for everyone to taste – cold slices of cooked liver and marble-white pork fat with partially fermented sticky rice, sweet like apple cider. The pork fat has a clean sweet taste, and soft luscious texture I don’t expect to like as much as I do.
The room fills again with people, faces from the night before and an occasional new face. Out come the bowls and the tin teapot. I admire the fortitude of the Miao as they fill their bowls yet again with mijiu and the cry goes up once more to ‘He jiu!’, although with just a little less conviction today and noticeably smaller sips.
We huddle around the hot dishes as they arrive – a bowl of soup, flavoured with thick slices of pork and pieces of cooked blood, sliced fried intestines cooked in a rich and savoury sauce, chewy and incredibly tasty. My children eat them. And ask for more.
The room fills with steam, and more toasts, and some faces begin to sweat and look unwell with the onslaught of more rice liquor. But they soldier on, and at the appointed time we all rise and move on to….

正午时分我们返回到房子品尝最重要的筵席,包括猪肉和它每一个部分的内脏。我们身后墙上挂着猪的中腰部分,血滴在地面上形成一小滩。
第一道菜呈上来供每个人品尝——烹饪后的肝脏放凉后切片,大理石般白肉伴着部分发酵的糯米,甜甜的像苹果汁。白肉有一种甜甜的味道,我从未期许过的那种柔软甘美的肉质。
房间又一次挤满了人,有前一晚见过的面庞还有偶尔的新的面孔。碗和锡制茶壶又拿了出来,当苗族人再一次填满碗中的米酒,再一次喊着“喝酒”的时候我承认他们的坚韧,尽管今天少了一些确信,而且明显喝得也更少了些。
在菜上来的时候我们拥挤一团围在热菜周围——一碗热汤,用猪肉厚片和烹饪过的血块做的,切成薄片的内脏伴着浓重开胃的酱汁,耐嚼而且非常美味。我的孩子们吃完这些,还要求再来一些。房间里充满蒸汽,还有更多的干杯声,一些脸庞已经开始出汗,看来难以应付对于再多一些米酒的进攻。但他们还在坚持着,在我们约定好的时间全部举起酒杯一饮而尽

6. Feast Number Four 四号盛宴

Unable to believe we were all going to tuck into our fourth feast in less than twenty four hours we head back up the hill to the sister’s house. The atmosphere this time is a little more subdued, with all the family elders sitting together at one end of the room.
I am asked to take their portrait, a succession of four polaroids, one for each of them. The look on their faces is delightful as they see the pictures develop and colour.

Before long though, everyone has rosy faces and and has fortified themselves for the important and health-giving feature of this final feast – fresh pig’s blood, uncooked and congealed like jelly. No matter how well prepared or how adventurous, fresh blood is one thing I cannot bring myself to try, but everyone else takes a small bowl.
This seems to signal the end of the feast, although in fact, the guests are simply leaving to start another round of visiting and feasting in the neighbouring villages. As a parting gift, each family is given a whole pig’s leg or two to take home, carried over the shoulder hanging from a pole.
难以置信在二十四小时之内我们又将去品尝第四顿盛宴,我们朝着山上姐姐的房屋走去。此时周遭的气氛减弱了一些,家里所有年长的人坐在房间的一边。
我被要求为他们拍照,一连串四张拍立得,每人一张,当他们看到相片一点点显示变得有颜色的时候他们的表情都非常的开心。
不久之前,每个人的面颊都是绯红色,为了强健他们的身体,最后这餐是非常重要的,而且有益于他们的健康——新鲜猪血,没被烹饪过的,凝结成像果冻一样的东西。不论准备多么充分或者多么爱冒险,新鲜猪血是我唯一无法说服自己尝试的东西,但其他每个人都尝了一小碗。

这看起来像是筵席的尾声,事实上,客人们仅仅是离开去邻村开始另一轮的拜访,参加新的筵席。作为一部分的礼物,每个家庭都会受到一两头猪的腿,腿被挂在一个杆上,这样被人们扛在肩上

7. Bullfighting 斗牛

Much of the visiting and feasting now over, the fourth day of the Guzang Festival  brings a bullfighting tournament in Leishan’s stadium, packed to capacity with spectators. 
I’m not sure what to expect. This is bull versus bull, with no human intervention unless a bull is fatally wounded. I’m expecting it to be bloody and confronting on many levels.
Intead, what we see is quite comical as two sedate and lazy water buffalo bulls are led into the arena through separate doors, ambling slowly. Suddenly they see one another and fly into an intense territorial rage, charging the other bull and locking horns. The first three battles end when the weaker of the two bulls unlocks horns and runs away, and the fourth after horns have been locked long enough to declare a draw. No blood is seen at any time. 
现在拜访和筵席都结束了,鼓藏节的第四天实在乐山露天体育场举行一场斗牛比赛,这里会有很多的观众到场。
我不知道期待什么,这是一场公牛之间的对抗,除非一头牛受到致命伤否则没有人会中途干预。我想这一定非常血腥,而且会有不同级别的对抗。
事实上,我看到的相当滑稽,两只沉着慵懒的水牛通过分开的门被牵到场地,他们步态缓慢。突然它们看到彼此,气氛充满了控制领域的高度紧张的愤怒气息,它们欲控制对方,牛角纠缠在一起相斗。第三场比赛以较弱的一头水牛解开牛角逃走结束。第四场比赛,牛角长时间纠缠在一起相持,最后平局收场。整场比赛没有见过一滴血。


8. Recovery, with Singing, Dancing, and Possibly Pig Bucket Races 复活,唱歌,跳舞还有斗猪比赛

The last days of the festival are subdued by comparison. Firecrackers continue to go off sporadically and there are pigs’ legs aplenty being carted around over shouders or on the backs of motorbikes. 
The villagers of Paiweng try to entice us back on a promise of singing and dancing on the village basketball court – but we run out of time to return to see it.
It’s been an exhausting few days and I’m keen to eat nothing but vegetables for a while. 
So let’s see – I think I’ve covered everything – ducks, ancestors, firecrackers, rice liquor, bull fighting, pig sacrifices, feasting, and….oh wait! What about the pig bucket races? We never did get to see those.
相比较而言,最后几天节日的气氛减弱了。爆竹继续零星地放着,人们扛着大量的猪腿,在肩膀上或是摩托车的后座上。排翁的村民想让我们回去,他们说在村子里的篮球场地会有跳舞唱歌——但我们没有时间去看了。最近几天真是筋疲力尽,这一阵儿除了蔬菜我再也不想吃其他东西了。
所以让我想想——我想我已经概述了每件事情——鸭子、祖先、爆竹、米酒、斗牛、献祭,盛宴,和……哦,等等!还有斗猪呢?我们再也没机会看到那些。
那就期待着2025年的鼓藏节见吧。

Looking forward to seeing you all for Guzang 2025 then.

Reflecting the Heavens: The Rice Terraces of Yuanyang 映射天堂:元阳水稻梯田

This is a big call, but I’m going to say it – if you only see one other place in China besides the Great Wall, it should be here, the Yuanyang region of Yunnan. (My husband, reading over my shoulder as I type this, is harrumphing and disagreeing – “What about the Terracotta Warriors? The Lost Library of Dunhuang? All of Shanghai??)
He has a point – for a place that is five hours out of your way from either Kunming or the Xishuangbanna region, you need a solid commitment to go. But we wandered into the area with absolutely no plans to do more than a day trip and left five days later. It hooks you like that. 
I’m going to give you five good reasons you should consider going to all that bother.
这个称呼很大,但是我还是要这么说——在中国如果除了长城之外你要看的第二个地方就应该是这里了,云南的元阳地区。(在我打这些字的时候,我的丈夫越过我的肩膀看到,他表示不同意,哼着说——“那兵马俑呢?遗失的敦煌藏书库呢?还有上海呢?”)

他有一个观点——要是那个地方偏离我们的道路,离昆明或是西双版纳都需要5个小时的话,你需要一个一致的承诺约定才能去。但我们毫无计划地花了一天多的行程,迷路游荡来到这个地方并且在5天后才离开,我们像被钩住了一般。
我将给你应当考虑去这里的五个理由。

 
1. The Rice Terraces 梯田
An incredible feat of agricultural engineering over 1300 years old, Yuanyang’s rice terraces are just simply spectacular. If you thought the Great Wall was an impressive man-made structure imagine these terraces, folded in and out of deep mountain valleys, in some places more than three thousand layered terraces extend upwards from the valley floor like mirrored steps leading to the sky.
In winter and early spring before the rice sprouts and turns the terraces a vivid green, the water reflects the sky, clouds and stars in an ever-changing array of pale colours.
The terraces are reached via the small town of Xinjie, from which they can be viewed at various sites along a loop road. The viewing platforms afford great views without disrupting the terraces themselves or the work of the farmers.
一个难以置信的超过一千三百年历史的农业技术创举,元阳的水稻梯田就是如此的壮观。如果你认为长城印象深刻——将一个建筑物想象成这些梯田,在深深的山谷之间里里外外地折叠着,在从像镜像的阶梯延伸至天空那样,在一些地方,超过三千层梯田从谷底延伸向上。
在冬天和早春的时候,稻米发芽并转化成生机勃勃的绿色之前,在不断变化排列的纯净的云朵间水面倒映着天空,云朵和星辰。
通过一个叫新界的小镇可以到达梯田,沿着蜿蜒的小路在不同的点都可以看到它们。从观景台可以看到很棒的风景,丝毫不会破坏梯田本身或是农民作业。

2. Rice 米
Not just an attraction for tourists, Yuanyang is one giant living, breathing rice farm, worked by the thousands of local villagers for whom rice is their livelihood. Rice gets planted, tended, watered, the seedlings transplanted, watered more, and finally harvested in a long cycle from early spring through to late autumn.
Given that rice has been a staple food in China for several thousand years, and China is the world’s greatest producer and greatest consumer of rice it’s fascinating to see first hand just how it’s grown, using the same centuries-old methods. 
The rice terraces will appear quite different depending on the time of year you visit – busy with farmers planting seedlings in spring, green and lush in summer, golden brown in autumn and busy again with autumn harvesting, in late autumn through winter and early spring the terraces are still ponds of reflected water.
不仅对游客而言是一个景点,元阳本身就是一个巨大的,充满生机的稻米农场,上千的本地村民依赖稻米生活。从早春到晚秋,稻米在这里被种植、照料、浇水、移植秧苗,再浇水,最终经过一个很长的周期得以收获。
如果几千年来稻米是中国的主要粮食,中国就是世界上最大的稻米生产者和消费者。看到一手的稻米用几个世纪以来的古老方式种植是如此令人陶醉。
根据你一年中到访的时间不同,稻米梯田呈现的景象也很不同——在春天农民忙着撒种子,夏天则是一片繁茂的绿色,秋天是一片金黄色,而且此时又要忙着丰收了,在晚秋走向冬天的这段时间还有早春的时候,梯田仍就是反射天空景象的水塘。

3. The Hani People 哈尼族
One of China’s many ethnic minorities, in Yuanyang the Hani constitute just over 50% of the population and are originally of Tibetan origin. 
Smiling, open, friendly and relaxed, the Hani (and local Yi people, who constitute the second largest ethnic group in the area) are one of the best reasons to visit Yuanyang, seeing life is it is for these traditional farmers. Tourism is gradually increasing but still plays a distant second fiddle to the area’s main business – rice cultivation.
The men have mostly taken to wearing western-style clothing outside of festival occasions, but the Hani women and children of both sexes still wear traditional clothing – a heavily embroidered tunic fastened with large silver buttons made from old coins, and trousers with bands of embroidery below the knee. The women wear head dresses of various kinds depending on their area of origin (see below). 
在中国众多的少数民族中,云南的哈尼族构成了超过百分之五十的人口,而且他们是藏族的起源。
微笑、开放、友好又无拘无束,哈尼族(还有本地的彝族人,他们构成了这个区域的第二大少数民族)就是来造访元阳的最好的一个理由,看看生活本身就是这些传统农民们。旅游逐渐发展但相对于这个地区的主要产业——稻株栽培而言仍然是一个有一定距离的二流角色。
在节日之外的时候,男人们多数穿着西式的服装,但是哈尼族的妇女和孩童仍穿着传统服装——很厚的绣花束腰外衣,并用古硬币制作的大银扣来固定,裤子的膝盖以下都是一群刺绣。妇女们依据她们原区域的不同戴着不同款式的头饰。(如下) 

4. A Hani Long Table Feast 哈尼长街宴
Now I don’t want to get your hopes up but if you happen to be visiting Yuanyang in October, November or December you may be lucky enough to ctach one of the dozens of Long Table Feasts during those months. Each village holds their own at different times.
On our way to the area we stopped in Honghe, where every local we met invited us to attend the nearby annual Long Table Feast in the village of Jiayinxiang, an hour away – awfully kind of them seeing as it wasn’t actually their feast they were celebrating, a little like inviting complete strangers to your next door neighbour’s wedding without asking them first. 
We went anyway, because it sounded like the sort of wedding party you could, as complete strangers, crash without offending anyone, and we were right. 
现在我不想激起你的希望,但是如果你碰巧十月、十一月或是十二月来元阳,在这几个月里你肯定足够幸运能赶上几十场长街宴中的一场。在不同的时间每个村落都会举办他们自己的长街宴。
在我们来这个区域的路上,我们在红河停留下来,在这里每一个本地人都邀请我们参加附近一个叫佳音乡的一年一度的长桌宴。一个小时的路程——他们看起来不是真正的在庆祝他们的宴会,而是有点像邀请完全陌生的人来你隔壁邻居的婚礼,而且没有请示他们。我们离开了,因为这听起来的确像个婚礼派对,你作为陌生人,没有冒犯任何人而闯了进来,事实上,我们是对的。
村庄的入口用旗布装饰着,小路用冷衫树枝铺盖。因此当在上面行走的时候,你的脚会带起松木味道。夜更深的时候味道会更清晰,这是个多好的主意啊。当我们还在试着想出来究竟宴席在哪里举办的时候,一列队伍就出现了——本地人穿着节日盛装,跳着舞,敲着木棍,敲着鼓,挥舞着成熟的稻杆儿,还唱着歌、我们卷入了上百个狂欢者的队伍,跟着他们被带着走向街道里。

The entrance to the village was decked with bunting and the pathways laid with fir branches, so your feet stirred up a lovely pine scent as you walked. Later in the evening it would become clear what a very good idea this was.
While we were still trying to work out exactly where the feast was taking place a procession began – locals dressed in festival best, dancing, tapping sticks, banging drums, waving branches of ripened rice, and singing. We were caught up in the procession of hundreds of revellers that followed them and were carried off down the street.

Rounding a corner we suddenly saw just exactly how long the Long Table Feast was. On either side of the crowd-filled street were long rows of low wicker tables, twenty, thirty, forty, fifty end on end, and every one groaning with Hani festive foods – small crisp-fried fish, poached chicken, roast duck, boiled peanuts, rounds of corn, and lichen salads in small bowls. 
Everyone – bar very small children – was drinking white bowls of rice wine. Lots of them. The toasts started with a shout at one end of the street and spread in a Mexican wave to the other end as each table stood in rapid succession to toast the table next to them. The food had barely been touched and almost everyone was already red-cheeked and rolling drunk, telling funny stories, singing songs and toasting again and again as Mexican waves rolled up and down the street. 
It looked like terrific fun but the only problem for us was that every single seat was taken and non-local Chinese visitors to the feast all seemed to possess a pre-purchased ticket. Dang. We knew there’d be a catch and someone would figure out we weren’t invited.
We stopped two young Hani women to ask if in fact there were any remaining tickets to be had, and they promptly, in typical hospitable Hani fashion, took us back to their house and fed us there. Imagine calling your mother to say you were bringing a family of four to Christmas dinner, and you’d be there in five minutes? Christmas fireworks indeed.
But not in Hani households, where low tables were set up in the open ground floor room of their house, clustered with bowls of roast pork, pickled greens, wild herbs, roasted walnuts, fried fish, spicy duck and a fiery, intense dipping suace of fermented tofu and pickled chilies.
The toasting continued unabated, we all had a rollicking good time and eventually over the course of the evening met all the relations and neighbours and friends of relations, whose job seemed to be to go from house to house, eating a little and drinking a lot. 
Needless to say we slept that night in the campervan, parked outside the village. 
绕过一个拐角处我们突然看到这个长桌宴到底有多长。在人群的两边——两行柳条桌填满了街道,20304050连接着到最后。每一个上面都摆满了哈尼族节日的美食——小脆炸鱼、清蒸鸡、烤鸭、水煮花生、圆玉米(爆米花?)、小碗里的青苔沙拉。每个人——禁止非常小的孩子参加——都喝着白碗里的米酒。他们中的很多人。当每一桌的人紧接着和邻桌的人干杯时,由街尾处的干杯开始以一个墨西哥式的波浪蔓延到另一头。食物几乎没有动,几乎每个人脸都红了而且烂醉如泥,讲着有趣的故事,唱着歌,一次又一次干杯,一次又一次如同墨西哥波浪般在街巷里起伏。
这看起来非常有趣,但我们唯一的问题是每一个座位都有人占了,非本地的中国游客看起来之前都买过票了。我们知道一定会有人被捉住,有人会发现我们没有被邀请。我们拦住两个哈尼族妇女问她们事实上是否还有剩余的票,她们迅速地将我们带回她们的房子,并在那里招待我们,以哈尼族特有的好客方式。想象一下打电话告诉你妈妈在圣诞晚宴你将带一家四口参加的时候,五分钟内你还在那里么?事实上一定会是一场圣诞大争论。
但并不是在哈尼族的家庭里,在他们房间空旷的地上摆放着低矮的桌子,上面摆着很多碗,盛着烤猪肉、野菜、烤花生、炸鱼、辣鸭,红红的浓烈味道的腐乳还有腌辣椒。干杯继续着,丝毫没有减弱。我们度过一个愉快的时光,挨家挨户见过所有邻居和朋友,谁的工作看起来怎么样,吃一点喝一点之后最终在夜晚结束这个过程。不用说也知道,我们那晚睡在房车里,它就停在村子外。

5. Did I mention the rice terraces? 元阳梯田
There’s just no denying they are extraordinarily beautiful no matter what time of day. In the early morning clouds creep up from the valleys below and at night, the perfect stillness of the water reflects the silvery moon and the tiny diamonds of the stars, sprinkled across the sky and sprinkled again across the land in their reflections. It’s magical.
不论一天里的什么时候,毫无疑问他们都是格外的美丽。在清晨的时候,云从山谷下慢慢升上来,在夜晚睡眠完美静谧的水面映照出银白的月色和璀璨的星辰,它们布满天空,与此同时又布满大地。真是太奇妙了。

Yuanyang Hani Rice Terraces元阳梯田
Near Xinjie township, Yunnan Province
Open daily
Admission RMB 100 adults, children under 1.3m free of charge
Admission ticket covers all the rice terrace areas and is valid for the length of your stay
Accommodation is available in Xinjie (where you will need take a bus or hire a minivan from the main bus station to drive to, and then around the terraces) and also at small guesthouses in Shengcun and Pugaolao villages. In Pugaolao (see below), you are right at the top of the Duoyishu Terraces, one of the largest terraced areas, which means you can view subnrise and sunset from the comfort of your guesthouse balcony.
在云南省的新界镇区
白天开放
入场费成人100元一米三以下儿童免费
入场票包括所有的稻米梯田,有效时间就是你待在里面的时间

新界提供住宿的地方(你需要从主要公交站坐公车或是雇一辆小型货车过去,然后它们就在梯田周围),也就是生村和普高老村落的小型私人旅馆。在普高老村落(如下),你就站在多一树梯田的顶部,它是梯田中最大的一个,也就是说你可以在旅馆阳台前就欣赏到日出和日落