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Kashgar Bazaar: A Dozen Temptations 喀什集市:诱惑连连


Need a mosque alarm clock that gives you a call to prayer? You can buy this and much, much more at Kashgar’s famed bazaar, otherwise known as the Sunday Market. Door hinges, goat bells, donkey harnesses, stockings, scarves, silks, tea, jewellery, dried fruits, carpets and spices, the bazaar sells the most extraordinary variety of interesting articles and covers a vast undercover area next to the old city.

需要一个清真寺闹钟供你祷告吗?在喀什著名的集市,即被人熟知的周日市场上,你可以买到这样东西,还有更多、更多其他的玩意儿。门铰链、山羊铃铛、马具、长袜、围巾、丝绸、茶叶、珠宝、干果、地毯和香料,毗邻古老的城市,集市上有多种多样极具非凡趣味的商品,涵盖了一个广阔的未知领域。

Just when you think you have the measure of the place you discover an entirely new section with a labyrinth of alleys selling nothing but wheat sacks. Or perfumes. Or copper pots.

事实上集市每天都会开放,他们已经不在那里出售活生生的动物(周日动物市场已经搬到城市北部的一个新地址),每样商品都是公平交易.
就在你认为你已经逛完某个地方的时候,你又会突然发现一个充满错综复杂小巷的全新区域,这里竟然会买卖小麦、香水或铜锅。


The bazaar is in fact open every day of the week, and although they no longer sell live animals there (the Sunday animal market having moved to a new home north of the city), everything else is fair game.

Here are a dozen things I couldn’t resist:

1.Tukche 门把手


After learning to make bread here in Kashgar I realized finally what these funny little turned wood doorknobs are – tukche. A small device used for making patterns on traditional Uyghur flatbread, I now own a whole set – should I ever decide to set up a Uyghur bakery (more on that idea in the next post).

Does anyone else out there have a kitchen full of essential equipment like this, purchased on holidays with the romantic notion that when you go back home you will make (insert name of foreign food here) every single day, thereby justifying the purchase?

在喀什学习制作面包之后,我又了解到这些有趣的小玩意被制成了木制门把手——tukche。现在我已经拥有自己的一整套设备——一个用于制作传统维吾尔族小面包干模具的小型装置,我是否该决定开一个维吾尔族面包店(关于这方面的更多想法在下一篇文章叙述)
怀着浪漫的心情在假日里购物,当你回到家时你会发现这一天如此与众不同(因为这里的食物竟然拥有一个异域美食的芳名),由此看来好像见证了这次假日购物。试想这些情景,除了喀什本地人,谁还会拥有这样一个设备齐全的厨房?



2. Gold 金饰


Uyghur women wear small fortunes of gold, with elaborate gold earrings being part of normal daily dress. When a woman marries, her husband-to-be will provide for a whole set of gold jewellery – earrings, necklace and bracelet, which she will choose with the help of her female relatives.

I did have my heart set on a pair of real gold earrings, each filigree curl inset with one tiny rough turquiose stone, but when I went back to the store in the bazaar it was closed. Tragedy. Instead, I bought a handful of fake gold earrings, just as much fun and way, way cheaper than 370 yuan/gram (about $60/gram), which is the going price for gold in Kashgar.

维吾尔族妇女佩戴金饰,做工精美的金耳环已经成为她们日常服装的一部分。当一个女人结婚的时候, 她的未婚夫将提供一整套的黄金首饰,耳环、项链和手镯作为聘礼,而她会在家族女眷的帮助下挑选这些东西。

我真的很中意一对在它每个饰有金银丝细工的螺旋状耳环中嵌入一个小而坚硬的绿松石的纯金耳环, ,但当我再回到集市的商店时,它已经关门了。真可惜。取而代之,我买了一把假的黄金耳环,这些同样也很有趣,而且价格远比喀什现行370/(60美元/)的黄金价格便宜得多。


3. Traditional Uyghur Silk 传统维吾尔族丝绸

















Vibrant colors and woven from the softest silk, this traditionaly patterned resist-dye silk known as khan atlas (the king’s silk) is sold either as small scarves, or in 6.4 metre lengths. 

When I enquired why one might need 6.4 metres exactly (a turban?I  hadn’t seen any of those) I was shown a pattern book full of Uyghur women’s dress styles. So now you know how many metres it took to make this:

充满活力的色彩,由柔软丝绸编制的这种传统的非染制花纹丝绸被称为汗阿特拉斯,它被当作为小围巾或者以6.4米长的布料出售。当我询问为什么一个人会需要6.4米的布料(一个头巾?我从未见过)时,他们向我展示了一个样本书,里面充满了维吾尔族妇女各种各样的服装风格。所以现在你知道做这玩意儿需要多少米了:




4. Glazed Earthenware 釉面陶器


Well OK, not the most practical or lightweight souvenir I’ve ever purchased, but I love my glazed green ewruk or water jug. The style is typical of Kashgar, with the earthy colours and simple designs perfect for serving hearty Uyghur food and drink. 

The shops selling earthenware goods lie between the old city and the western edge of the bazaar – just look for piles of jugs and pots on a long stretch of pavement.

好吧,我不只是购买最实用的或最轻便的纪念品,因为我确实钟爱那些釉面绿色ewruk或水壶。他们是典型的喀什风格,充满乡土气息的色彩和简单的设计,适合用于提供丰盛的维吾尔族的食物和饮料。


5. Spices 香料


In every bazaar is a whole postcode dedicated to spices, the air thick with the smells of dried chili, cumin, saffron and cinnamon – it’s intoxicating. 

Visit any dora dermek shop selling spices and ask for a tetitku – a spice mixture. The vendor will take a little of this, a little of that, and hand you a small paper parcel inside which is a dynamite powder packed with flavour used for seasoning kebabs, roast lamb, chicken or vegetables.

逛了每一家卖香料的doradermek商店,寻找tetitku—一种香料混合物。卖家拿一点这个,再拿一点那个,递给你一张小纸包裹,里面就是极美味的调料,可以用来烤肉串,烤羔羊肉,鸡肉和蔬菜.
在这里的每一个市集都好像是香料世界的整套邮政编码,空气中弥漫着浓重的干辣椒、孜然、藏红花和肉桂气味——这真是令人兴奋。


6. Doppa 毡帽


Worn by Muslim men, the doppa is simple and beautiful – embroidered and decorated, there are no strict rules about who wears what kind, although older men favour the embroidered green hat of Uyghur muslims, and younger men the simpler ones shown above.

I love the simple white doppa – with designs of circles and inverted hearts woven into the fabric.

我喜欢简单的白色毡帽——布料中融入了圆圈和倒置的心型编织设计。
穆斯林男子戴的帽子简单而美丽——只有绣花和装饰,对于什么样的人该穿什么样的衣服并没有严格的规定,但是年长的男性偏爱维吾尔族穆斯林特有的绣花绿色帽子,而年轻男性则喜欢更为简单的款式。


7. Tea 


Black tea is the staple drink of the Uyghur people, served at every meal and seemingly every other hour of the day too. Enter a Uyghur home and the first thing you will be offered is a shallow ceramic bowl of tea, drunk with the thumb hooked over the bowl’s rim.

The tea is also drunk flavoured with spices, rose petals, saffron and cinnamon.

红茶是维族人主要的饮料,每顿饭都会有,,似乎一天中的其他时候也会喝。拜访一个维吾尔族人家,他首先会提供给你一个浅瓷碗的茶,喝的时候要用拇指钩住的碗的边缘。茶里面也充满了香料,玫瑰花瓣、藏红花和肉桂。


8. Teapots 茶壶


You’ll need a teapot for making your tea in, and apparently, if you’re me and you have a large vehicle in which to store purchases from bazaars, you’ll need two.

Inexpensive but elegant, the brass teapots have a filter basket inside to stop you getting a mouthful of leaves, and to enable multiple steepings.


你会需要一两个茶壶盛放你的茶。

价廉又优雅,在黄铜茶壶里面的一个过滤篮子防止你喝到一口的叶子,并且这个茶壶也方便多次浸泡。(浸泡=加水)


9. Brocades and Other Shiny Stuff 锦缎和其他闪亮的东西

As a lifelong sewer and hoarder of all things related to textiles and sewing, the Kashgar bazaar is a dangerous place to let me loose. These brocades are popular for furnishing fabrics, and not just a feature cushion or two either – imagine whole rooms decorated in this flamboyant brocade style, from wall coverings to quilts to the long, oblong cushions used for sitting on the floor. Every Uyghur house is a riot of colour, pattern and shine.

By the way, can you spot the camouflaged second woman in this shot?

顺便问一下,你能分辨出出在这个镜头下伪装的第二个女人吗?
作为一个终身的裁缝和一切相关纺织品、缝纫的囤积者,喀什集市是绝对是一个让我疯狂之地。这些织锦作为装饰面料很流行,但不仅仅是一两个特色垫子——想象一下所有的房间都用这种华丽的织锦风格装饰,从墙饰到棉被再到用于坐在地板上长长的椭圆形垫子。每一个维吾尔族房子都呈现了一种色彩,模式和光泽的五彩斑斓。


10. Bounty of the Oasis 慷慨的绿洲

Last year in Kashgar I bought a small bag of the most exquisite tiny dried figs, about the size of a marble, sweet and chewy with the crunch of tiny, tiny seeds. The figs ran out  ten months ago, so I’m not making that mistake again – I stocked up on several kilograms of the world’s best dried foods – apricots, figs, dates, sultanas, raisins, walnuts and almonds. 

All of these fruit and nut trees thrive in the Kashgar oasis, along with melons, tomatoes, eggplant and the local yellow carrots. 

所有这些水果和坚果树都生长在喀什的绿洲,还有很多瓜类、番茄、茄子和当地的黄色胡萝卜。
去年在喀什我买了一个小袋精致的无花果干,弹珠一般大小,很甜,嚼起来有细小的嘎吱声,非常小的种子。十个月前我把无花果吃完了,因此我不会犯同样的错误——我囤积了几公斤的世界上最好的干货——杏、无花果、枣子、小葡萄干、提子干、核桃和杏仁。

11. Door Hinges 门铰链


Yes, I am the kind of person who buys door hinges. Who wouldn’t want a set of stunning hand-made Uyghur hinges like these? No? How about a door knocker? 

是的,我就是买门铰链的那类人。谁不想要一组像这样绝妙的维吾尔族手工铰链?没有人吗?那门环怎么样?


12. Musical History 音乐历史


Uyghurs have a rich and proud musical history and at the bazaar you might be tempted to purchase one of these beautiful instruments – a stringed duttar made from patterned mulberry wood. Then you can practice singing the muqam, an ancient Uyghur song with 14,000 lines named by Unesco as an ‘intangible cultural heritage’

维吾尔族人有丰富和引以为傲的音乐历史,集市上你可能会想要在这些美丽的乐器中购买一种——一个由花纹桑木材制作的弦器duttar。然后你可以练习演唱muqam,一首含有14000个歌词的古老维吾尔族民歌,它被联合国教科文组织命名为非物质文化遗产




Kashgar Bazaar/Sunday Market 喀什集市/周日市场


Yengi Bazaar, Aizirete Lu
Open Daily from 8am to 6pm

Yengi集市, Aiziret
每天从8点到下午6点开放