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Flat-out Pigs’ Heads, Yongkang Lu

Need a flattened out pig’s head to help with your Chinese New Year celebrations? Or how about a compressed dried chicken, feet’n’all? Just two of the many intriguing items available at the Year of the Rabbit market on Yongkang Lu this week! Festive markets like this one spring up all over Shanghai in preparation for the upcoming Spring Festival, and whole streets are taken over by long rows of red-tented stalls. The stalls are open all day, every day, and into the night, and after close of business the stall holders, who may have come from far afield, put up a drape and sleep on the floor of the stall to keep their goods safe from would-be thieves. Tough going when it’s minus four outside. 
Everyone loves to buy special foods to take home for the holidays, just like we do, although at these markets you won’t spot a single box of chocolates or marzipan fruit, and there certainly aren’t any neat packets of assorted nuts. There is dried dog but I didn’t want to put you off, so no photos, sorry. Luckily there are plenty of other slightly more palatable options to choose from!

You could try the red dates or dried lychees……

Special harvest rice……

Various dried seaweeds, or Chinese pork sausages and other assorted bits of dried meats, geese, ducks, dogs….
Or you could just hang out in your warm quilted PJs and sample all the pickles on offer…including pickled jellyfish….

In amongst all the odder foods I was dragged over to take the photo of this super-apple-salesman, along with the sign that says he is a certified apple seller, best quality. There was a really great camaraderie between the sellers as they joked and gave him a hard time about having the poses he was happily adopting for the picture. Apples are popular Chinese New Year gifts because they’re red. And the redder they are, the more expensive they are. Of course!
And by the way, does anybody know what you do with those pig’s heads? I tried googling ‘how to cook a Chinese flat dried pig’s head’ and got this fascinating account of Imperial Foods of the Ming Dynasty:
 How to pickle a pig’s head and trotters. Cook the pig’s head and trotters until they are very soft, then remove the bones. Spread the meat on a cloth and press it flat overnight with a large stone. It is very delicious when pickled in grains. (Eight Commentaries on How to Live )

Love that google.

  • Louise

    Oh my, those pigs heads are a confronting image enough, glad not to see the dog, as I sit here on the couch with the laptop and a dog. The rest looks intriguing though.

  • Fiona

    Your dog is lucky to be safe and sound where he is, without fear of you getting suddenly peckish!

  • MaryAnne

    Am sitting warmly with my coffee inside this morning so can't be bothered to pop 'round the corner to check…. is Yongkang lu the tiny street between Yongjia and Fuxing, and Xiangyang and Jiashan? That street market looks exactly like the one just around the corner from us (we are in the China Mobile apartment building on the corner of Yongjia/Jiashan). I took pics of it on my phone a few weeks back before it temporarily disappeared but again, your photos are so much better!

  • croquecamille

    Those pig heads look like masks to me – I don't know if I'd be able to resist holding one up to my face. Hilarity would ensue, I'm sure.

  • Fiona

    To maryanne – Yes, I had a giggle here, Yongkang is that one between Xiangyang and Jiashan Lu, some friends just moved in to ?ming yuan on the corner of Jiashan and Yongkang. Let me know if there are any other streets I can check out for you while you're sitting warm and snug with your coffee!!
    Quite extraordinary to think that out of the double expanses of the www and the city of Shanghai we're practically neighbours!

  • Fiona

    To Camille – Now that would be a sight worth seeing!

  • Anonymous

    Happy New Year Fiona! So glad you have documented all of the madness for us I opted for a quick tour of Japan with the kids. Looking forward to your pics of the Lantern Festival. Best Wishes, Cathy McQuade

  • Fiona

    Happy New Year Cathy! Hope you had a wonderful holiday with all those polite people in Japan 😉 Off to the Lantern Festival soon so will keep you posted!

    Cheers, Fiona